"I get the feeling Scotland is on the cusp of a gastronomic explosion of ideas and talent that it hasn’t had before”: New York chef Paul Liebrandt in Glasgow
Chefs Paul Liebrandt (left) with Graeme Cheevers at Unalome as they start prep on next week’s eight-course four-hand dinner
Paul Liebrandt can’t keep his eyes off a fresh delivery of XXXL langoustines from the Kilbrannan Sound and North Uist as they kick and twist in their boxes. The renowned chef has just arrived direct from New York at Unalome, the recently Michelin-starred Glasgow restaurant owned by his old pal Graeme Cheevers, where they’re cooking an eight-course four-hand dinner in three days’ time (May 9 and 10, 2022). Despite what must be a bit of jet-lag, he’s alert to the task ahead – and already seems to be loving what he sees.
“These are just phenomenal,” he says dreamily as he appraises the hyper-local super-fresh shellfish, his expert eyes also taking in a massive fresh turbot as it is deposited on the counter by supplier John Vallance. “You guys are truly blessed for the quality of your seafood, your langoustines, scallops, white fish. To me, it’s this that makes Scotland part of the global gastronomy movement.” A tantalising subject to which we will return later.
Right now, time is of the essence. New York-based Liebrandt – the high-energy star of the film A Matter of Taste who trained with Marco Pierre White, Raymond Blanc and Pierre Gagnaire; has two restaurants in Bangkok, one under construction in Miami and plans another in New York; whose former restaurant Corton gained two stars in the New York City Michelin Guide within months of opening; who now runs his own consultancy Crumpet Management; and whose cooking has variously been described as “outre”, “exciting” and “daring” – has been invited to cook at Unalome by long-time friend Cheevers, who earlier in his own stellar career did a stage at Liebrandt’s The Elm restaurant in Brooklyn.
Liebrandt’s presence in Glasgow, which he has never visited before, has created quite the stir: the special two-night event, at £400 a head including paired wine, was booked out within two hours. As result which prompts Liebrandt to declare: “If anything, this is undercharging because for what you’re getting makes it actually very reasonable.”
Chef Cheevers says simply: “Working with chef Paul is good for my staff, it’s a new experience for them and I’m sure they will gain from it. It’s also good for Glasgow to get a taste of high-level New York gastronomy without having to travel.”
For his part, Liebrandt’s admiration of Cheevers is expressed thus: “He’s very focused, organised, thoughtful, disciplined. That’s the way to be. The shouty bully-boy head chef is yesterday’s hero.
“I trained in that environment. I never really enjoyed that side of cooking because it didn’t bring out the best in the team. Thankfully that’s in the past.”
Chef Paul at his former Brooklyn restaurant The Elm, where Graeme Cheevers staged (Photo ©GQ.)
We grab a moment to chat over super-strong espresso. Chef Paul opens a thick black folder and we scan its contents: meticulously itemised ingredients for each fish dish he will be responsible for (chef Cheevers is doing the meat courses because chef Paul “wanted to work with Scottish seafood”), intricately detailed prep instructions, and finally the recipes, explained step by miniscule step.
The bespoke menu is typically tight-lipped, but imparts just enough to hint at deep complexity and high creativity. One dish is Langoustine Harlequin.
“There’s a lot of detail,” he says. “For this there are two different preparations of langoustine: grilled over white Japanese charcoal then wrapped in saki gelee. I’m using natural colours of beautiful spring green garlic leaf, white coconut milk, red wine with hibiscus.”
Turbot will be served with scallop farci, fraise de bois and goat milk Chantilly.
He says he has “no idea” how many ingredients are involved. “Each dish is focused on one ingredient and it’s the story of that ingredient. It’s not complicated, but it’s graphic.”
Presentation is paramount, for its leads to other things. “We eat with our eyes. Flavour and memory are the most important.”
“Graeme and I have created a menu for guests according to place, and the time of year. When he worked with me at The Elm, Graeme used local ingredients. It’s about respect. I want to support the local fishermen and producers.”
He rebuffs my question about technique. “I hate the term,” he says. “When you sit down to a meal, it’s to a story that we’re telling. It’s for us to tell you the story. Food is the only industry where we use all of our senses – look, taste, smell, etc – then you just know when it’s something special. It’s a bit like being in love. Also, it’s the only industry where we put something inside ourselves, where we put our work inside us.”
Both chefs agree that hospitality is one industry that has not changed dramatically, unlike others such as private dentistry where clients are willing to pay the highest prices for a half-hour appointment.
“Our is a high-energy industry. You can’t automate it; it takes a lot of skill and experience to get all the gears to move at the same time,” says chef Liebrandt. “No mechanism can do that for you; it’s hands-on manpower. That hasn’t changed ever. So it’s about economies of scale.”
Chef Liebrandt attended Westminster college and initially intended to follow his father’s footsteps and join the military, but changed his mind and left at age 15 to work at commis chef at the legendary l’Escargot in Greek Street in London’s Soho, where he remembers learning to make Pommes Dauphine filled with orange confit.
Was it difficult? “I don’t remember – I had nothing to compare it to at that age,” he says, adding: “I learned from my father that if you’re going to do something, do the best you can do and be the best you can be,” he says. “I really enjoyed food and cooking, and decided that I wanted to compete at the highest level.
“It's not easy; this is a really hard business, tough and very unforgiving.”
He’s happier to discuss influences on his cooking. “I do enjoy South-east Asian, yes, and Nordic, but my training was French. French is the basis of global gastronomy. That is something I will say, and I will not not say it ever,” he says.
What does he reckon is the next thing in global gastronomy? “People are more knowledgeable about food, and after being cooped up for two years are more open to trying global influences on food.
“There’s always going to be a cuisine du jour: Ferran Adria at El Bulli in Spain redefined gastronomy through the lens of Spain, Rene Redzepi at Noma through the lens of Scandinavia. Mexico, Korea, are steeped in their country’s history. And younger chefs are interpreting that.”
And Scotland? “The lineage in Scottish talent is strong. Andrew Fairlie, plus others like Graeme and Tom Kitchin travelled the world to hone their skills and came back, being amazing ambassadors for their country. The next generation learned from them and now young chefs are staying here and cooking through the lens of their own country.
“Scotland is one of those places where you have the feeling it’s on the cusp of a gastronomic explosion of ideas and talent that it hasn’t had before.”
In the kitchen behind him, phones are ringing, urgent messages are being whispered and the buzz of creative chaos is building. Chef Cheevers is keen to get on with the setting up of an off-site prep kitchen to allow for normal service in the restaurant. Before we part, Chef Paul says: “There’s always going to be the next thing. I just focus on making people happy through sentiment.”
ENDS